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Allmightyballs



Joined: 15 Aug 2016
Posts: 3

PostPosted: Tue Aug 16, 2016 2:53 am    Post subject: Dark Cocker Restart after decade Reply with quote

Hello Pros, Im seeking some help from oldschool players or cocker specialists. I used to play as often as I could & got pretty decent. Entered a few tourneys with friends & a couple serious. I ran a tippman RT until I found a Warped Sports Dark Autococker with a crossfire 68/45 tank & richochet hopper. All my $$ was in paintball then life happened when a drunk local vandalized my car thinking it was someone else. Insurance wouldnt cover it so I had to pay for it out of pocket which forced me to sell everything. Its always ate at me that I had to give up like that, not to mention even to this day I couldnt be changed on my set up.
Long story short...
Ive found an almost exact gun but it came with an eblade1 & proto barrel. In weeks ive been looking at how the PB world has evolved & it does look like it would be a better option to stay electro vs trying to find an old dye matching trigger but thats about the most Ive come to understand from all my searching.
Im having a few issues with the boards battery connects staying in correct alignment or keeping pressure enough so it stays on. Its says v1.06 when it turns on. So far short of buying one I cant find a manual to get aquinted with the in & outs of eblades. Just like honda swaps, nothing but dead links & no loading pics.
When installing hopper tank ect, I screwed in the tank & heard the gun air up. Using an old 32deg drop forward macro line 90 elbow to gun on 1 side, original warped sports air guage on the other. A few seconds after the tanks screwed in, I hear a light his coming from one of the fittings then it starts to leak badly from the nozzle you screw the tank in. I just had a trusted pro put on a new o ring while filling the tank but thats the only thing I can think of that maybe the problem at the moment.
Lastly, before it started leaking bad I thought dry firing would help. It seemed to buy more time but as I turned the knob on the palmers lpr on front block, air started leaking bad out of the tank screw in.
Ill admit Ive forgotten alot in the decade or so but in fairness the game has changed a good bit since too. I still plan on fully redoing this marker to the fullest of its potential, So please feel free to update me on boards, internals, OPINIONS on ways to make it a oldschool threat! So far Ive been told or seen that, Tadao/yakuza board, karnivor internals, can make a beast shooting 24+ bps. Not sure how that racks up against alot of newer stuff now.
Im not sure if there is a way to set it up with full auto board that can throw an ungodly amount of paint for fun & click in tourney settings but thats the goal, if not Id rather have a fun oldschool toy & wait to get a newer gun for serious play.
In closing, I know asking the ol "what mods can I do" is the worst/noobish move you can make but Ive got no chance at getting this running or playing much anytime soon without advice/ constructive critizism. A friendly reminder of simple things to check, links or anything eblade cocker related would be greatly appreciated.
Im also on the look out for ANY old warped sports stuff. Thanks in advance guys
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Paintzapper



Joined: 09 Oct 2008
Posts: 426
Location: Central Florida

PostPosted: Tue Aug 16, 2016 11:38 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Howdy! Some tips I can pass on to you:

Leaks are usually just seals gone bad, sometimes o-rings can be nicked on installation.

After you get the leaks fixed, set your LPR to the lowest setting then slowly increase the pressure. Google sweet spotting autococker regulators for more info.

I had an eblade a while back, here is a link with some info on what I delt with: http://forums.warpig.com/phpbb/viewtopic.php?t=93

As for keeping the battery in place, I just pinned some folded paper on the bottom of the battery to increase pressure to the terminals

Most fields will not allow over 15 bps or even full auto, safety and insurance reasons. How much paint one can put down range is usually a non factor as most every tournament use a certain ramping mode that caps at 10.5 - 13 bps. I would worry about getting your setup functional first then tinkering.

Me personally, I would go with the dye swing triggers as I love the look and feel. I ran with a single swing trigger for years on my last cocker build and never once thought about throwing an eblade kit on it.

You have much better and easier options available now for someone who has little experience with autocockers, all can be had at a great price as well. But if you want to dive in, an ebladed cocker will be a wonderful start!
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Allmightyballs



Joined: 15 Aug 2016
Posts: 3

PostPosted: Thu Aug 18, 2016 1:56 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for the tips Paintzapper! Ive been doing a lot of research on what changed, why, whats the new standard, field rules but mainly how I will work my project into it all. I never needed any electro nor would have been talked into it so Im trying to go all original but the faded dye handle will be a hard find. I may go with a hinge style if I can find one without going broke on ebay.

As for the leak, its still happening. I blue Loctite the fittings which fixed the small leaks but since it has no where to go it shoots back out. I always used Hoppes oil on my gun back in the day but supposedly no one does anymore. I was going to change the oring on the tank & oil it but Im afraid that would hurt more then help. Also Ive discovered I probably shouldn't be running CO2 on an eblade. Can anyone confirm this simple fact?

I did the same thing for the battery & it for the most part works except for if I jerk to dodge something incoming it slides out everytime. Also the metal tops that are on the board should line up but don't & are very easy to bend up. they are in poor shape overall but I figure with a new board or trigger set, it wont be an issue long. I wasn't sure if it was a common problem or possible simple fix.

As for spraying paint/ bps. I watched a video with a red karnivor popping 24-25 which made me think. The only field I have close is notorious for telling ppl they cant bring high end guns, cockers... Basicly tippman or spyder stuff or not at all. That leaves a couple hour drive to the next one for any serious play or practice. Im stuck between being rational or what I want. Personally id like to fully check out the electro part before going back but either way ill still be on the search for a matching trigger.
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Paintzapper



Joined: 09 Oct 2008
Posts: 426
Location: Central Florida

PostPosted: Thu Aug 18, 2016 1:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

You can use any oil made for paintball (Gold Cup is still a go to for me) or some paintball grease, I think a DOW33 grease should do the trick for ya.

The tank o-ring is a simple and easy fix, just grab a pack of tank o-rings and you should be all set. I keep about 20-100 in my tool box at all times as I find someone (usually me) always blows one out each outing. Also I like to use teflon tape over loctite as there is no waiting and it is easy to undo if needed.

CO2 is a no no on most electronic solenoid driven markers as they tend to damage the system, and it could also be why you are experiencing troubles as well. HPA is the way to go for most every marker nowadays, the eblade is no exception. Where are you experiencing the leaks from now?

I have seen people solder in the typical 9v battery harness and this prevents most issues with the battery coming undone. Cheap to get a hold of and easy to install. They have become a standard for most markers too. I have a bunch sitting around if you can't find one.

That is an interesting field, Most fields I go to will separate the electronic and mechanical crowd or just balance them out. It didn't matter if it was a high end mech like a cocker or mag they would be in with the spyders and tippmanns.
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Allmightyballs



Joined: 15 Aug 2016
Posts: 3

PostPosted: Sun Aug 21, 2016 2:14 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I ended up getting a specific oil ive seen a lot of good things about in other threads. Ive got plenty of tape & prefer it but the pressure gauge I have leaks no matter how I wrap it but I think its more because of the way its threaded with a slight funnel. I hoped the Loctite would fix it & make it useable but have yet to try it.
I wanted an original set up because I remember the comfort of using it on the field. Since im having air issues & Im not liking how my macroline runs, ive been looking into a CP or something that mounts direct with the trigger.

The gun otherwise works fine with co2 but that was briefly to make sure it was timed & all items I bought worked proper, eggy hopper, tank ect.

The air leak seems to be the oring on the tank which ive changed & oiled. It worked fine in a spyder but something keeps causing it to become super loose after first screw in, so eventually Ill run out of rings this way. Honestly, I may just wait it out until I get my HPA tank & filled. The co2 tank Ive got being 9 years out of test has really given me a bad feeling.

On the trigger note, Im learning quickly about the eblade & if its in time and I can get a board change, I may leave it as is unless I can find my trigger. I guess someone saw this & listed 2 of the same color fade but the one I wanted sold before I could make sure my paypal was g2g. That & I would rather go dye if I have to "make due".

I do want to thank you again as your advice has been greatly helpful. Forums aren't normally a friendly place for knowledge in my experience.
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Paintzapper



Joined: 09 Oct 2008
Posts: 426
Location: Central Florida

PostPosted: Sun Aug 21, 2016 4:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

You are most welcome! Some forums are full of kids and trolls, a good place to ask for some cocker advice would be MCarterbrown. Lots of good people with loads of experience.
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