| View previous topic :: View next topic |
| Author |
Message |
Paintzapper
Joined: 09 Oct 2008
Posts: 203
Location: Oviedo, FL
|
 Posted: Thu Dec 18, 2008 5:24 pm Post subject: new mag owner! |
 |
|
just picked up a mag in a trade, i wanted one so i can learn about them, they seem like an interesting marker. i read the sticky and it was very informative.
ive been reading about the RT setups. and i do understand the principle of how they work. but my question is, is their anything i have to add/change out to make an rt valve work? right now it has a classic valve and ULE frame. i saw some things about the rails, really any info will help. not looken to get a level 10 or xvale anytime soon, just learn more about them.
the ULE frame has cocker threads and angel feed/dent?
_________________
Team S.C.A.P.
http://www.myspace.com/scappaintball
i know its myspace but its free!
|
|
| Back to top |
|
 |
pigtech
Site Admin
Joined: 06 Oct 2008
Posts: 311
Location: Florida's Space Coast
|
| Posted: Thu Dec 18, 2008 9:01 pm Post subject: Re: new mag owner! |
|
|
| Paintzapper wrote: | | just picked up a mag in a trade, i wanted one so i can learn about them, they seem like an interesting marker. i read the sticky and it was very informative. |
Yep, back in the day, the serious teams either shot 'mags or 'cockers (or in some cases like Aftershock they shot both) and that was it.
| Quote: |
ive been reading about the RT setups. and i do understand the principle of how they work. but my question is, is their anything i have to add/change out to make an rt valve work? right now it has a classic valve and ULE frame. |
The Automag RT valve is not compatible with a regular (i.e. Classic) 'mag. Instead of getting fed gas through a hose in the side, the rear grip frame screw is hollow and gas comes up into the valve through that.
The ReTro valve, on the other hand, is a redesigned version of the Automag RT valve that *is* compatible with standard 'mag rails and bodies.
X-Valve is the next generation of the ReTro Valve - it works the same, but it's got more aluminum than stainless steel, so it's lighter weight. If the price difference is not big between ReTro and X-Valve, the X is a nicer way to go.
That's not to say you can't get great performance out of the Classic valve though.
| Quote: |
i saw some things about the rails, really any info will help. not looken to get a level 10 or xvale anytime soon, just learn more about them.
|
Yep, different rail for the RT - everything else uses the same rail.
| Quote: |
the ULE frame has cocker threads and angel feed/dent? |
Yep for sure on the barrel threads - and I think so on the detents, but I've never needed to replace the detents...
_________________
Bill Mills - Technical Editor, WARPIG.com
|
|
| Back to top |
|
|
Paintzapper
Joined: 09 Oct 2008
Posts: 203
Location: Oviedo, FL
|
| Posted: Thu Dec 18, 2008 11:15 pm Post subject: |
|
|
awesome! thanks alot! btw, is the difference in weight between the clasic valve and the x valve significant?
_________________
Team S.C.A.P.
http://www.myspace.com/scappaintball
i know its myspace but its free!
|
|
| Back to top |
|
|
DaveA
Joined: 07 Oct 2008
Posts: 179
Location: NYC
|
| Posted: Thu Dec 18, 2008 11:49 pm Post subject: |
|
|
The main thing is you have to use high output HPA. I've found that in classic AIRs it's vital, and if you can increase Airflow, by using either larger inner diameter macroline or boring out the inner ends of steel braided hose, you can get much better performance, almost equal to the performance of the RT valve (in terms of speed and reactivity of the trigger.)
I've used cocker detents before. It is a angel feedneck.
I suggest having a spare detent laying around in your kit, if it ever gets shot out, you're going to be very unhappy.
|
|
| Back to top |
|
|
Paintzapper
Joined: 09 Oct 2008
Posts: 203
Location: Oviedo, FL
|
|
| Back to top |
|
|
pigtech
Site Admin
Joined: 06 Oct 2008
Posts: 311
Location: Florida's Space Coast
|
| Posted: Fri Dec 19, 2008 1:56 pm Post subject: |
|
|
The ideal, with an RT is having an adjustable output regulator. It was normal, when the Automag came out that all high-end HPA systems had adjustable regulators, and simply adjusting the pressure fed to the 'mag adjusted how responsive the trigger was. I don't think there are any adjustables on the market anymore, the last one made being the Max-Flo inline.
_________________
Bill Mills - Technical Editor, WARPIG.com
|
|
| Back to top |
|
|
Paintzapper
Joined: 09 Oct 2008
Posts: 203
Location: Oviedo, FL
|
| Posted: Fri Dec 19, 2008 3:54 pm Post subject: |
|
|
so if i do get one, i could get a secondary reg with a high output with the same effects?
_________________
Team S.C.A.P.
http://www.myspace.com/scappaintball
i know its myspace but its free!
|
|
| Back to top |
|
|
pigtech
Site Admin
Joined: 06 Oct 2008
Posts: 311
Location: Florida's Space Coast
|
| Posted: Fri Dec 19, 2008 11:35 pm Post subject: |
|
|
Not sure what you mean by "secondary reg."
You'll just want the reg that's part of the compressed air system - a high-output screw-in model (Crossfire, etc.) will work fine. That, plus the reg built into the AIR/ReTro/X-Valve on the marker gives you double-regulation. Adding another reg after that would give you triple regulation, which as a general rule is not of benefit, and runs the risk of gas starvation.
_________________
Bill Mills - Technical Editor, WARPIG.com
|
|
| Back to top |
|
|
Paintzapper
Joined: 09 Oct 2008
Posts: 203
Location: Oviedo, FL
|
| Posted: Sat Dec 20, 2008 4:37 pm Post subject: |
|
|
ah didnt know the vavle acted as a reg itself.
_________________
Team S.C.A.P.
http://www.myspace.com/scappaintball
i know its myspace but its free!
|
|
| Back to top |
|
|
pigtech
Site Admin
Joined: 06 Oct 2008
Posts: 311
Location: Florida's Space Coast
|
| Posted: Mon Dec 22, 2008 2:42 pm Post subject: |
|
|
Yep, the classic valve was originally called an A.I.R valve - Air Integrated Regulator. The 'mag was the first production marker with a regulated exhaust supply (the gas that fires the ball.)
_________________
Bill Mills - Technical Editor, WARPIG.com
|
|
| Back to top |
|
|
scrapiron
Joined: 16 Oct 2008
Posts: 15
|
| Posted: Mon Dec 22, 2008 4:31 pm Post subject: |
|
|
On the subject of the A.I.R. valve, I think we're jumping to the conclusion that you'd be using HPA,
Were you going to use CO2 on your classic? If so, then an expansion chamber or better yet a PPS Stabilizer wouldn't be a bad idea to help prevent the valve from frosting over.
If not, then just ignore this post.
|
|
| Back to top |
|
|
DaveA
Joined: 07 Oct 2008
Posts: 179
Location: NYC
|
| Posted: Mon Dec 22, 2008 7:06 pm Post subject: |
|
|
| scrapiron wrote: | On the subject of the A.I.R. valve, I think we're jumping to the conclusion that you'd be using HPA,
Were you going to use CO2 on your classic? If so, then an expansion chamber or better yet a PPS Stabilizer wouldn't be a bad idea to help prevent the valve from frosting over.
If not, then just ignore this post. |
When I ran CO2, I used to do a coiled remote with an xchamber at the head, popped into a sidemount stabilizer linked into a vertically mounted Xchamber. And still, unless I ran the hose up my sleeve I had trouble playing winter ball. HPA of course fixed all those things.
|
|
| Back to top |
|
|
|
